major news: there IS a cafe in Dawson City...it's in the impressively-tumbled-down Westminster Hotel--not the Pit Bar, but the side-pit, down the hall. now i 've glanced into the side-pit in late afternoon & been rather scared by the sheer quantity of cigarette smoke. but in the morning, it's merely hazy in here & the coffee, if you order it "with everything", is perfect--sweet with evaporated milk in a classic white mug. if it weren't so smoky, i would take my laptop down to the Side-Pit & work here every morning, gazing at the birchbark canoe hanging over the bar.
Barnacle apparently plays piano here on weekends during Happy Hour. like every other piano in town, there are caribou antlers on the wall overhead. i think there might be a law in Dawson: no piano is safe without a talismanic antlers.